Großglockner, an expedition to the rooftop of Austria 2016


" Once someone asked me:" Why do you go in the mountains? "I replied that people can be divided into two types:
a) for those who do not have to explain this passion
b) those who will not be explained to her "
- Piotr Pustelnik

Grossglockner   3798 m above sea level - in the translation means the Great Dane . It is the highest peak of Austria lying in the national park in the mountain sub-group of the High Tauern . It is the second highest peak of the Alps. The first exit took place on July 28, 1800.



day 1. Vienna - Lienz - Hubben - Kals am Großglockner


And it started! we took part in our next trip to the clouds.
This time, our goal is the highest peak of the Gross Großglockner in Austria.
The first stage of the trip was a night trip by Polish bus to Vienna.
When planning a trip in advance, you can book tickets for as little as PLN 10 each way.

Vienna greeted us with a beautiful sunrise.



We did not spend too much time there, but enough to pay attention to the incredibly good organization at the stations, thanks to which it took us a moment to find a change.




From there, the Austrian railways ÖBB got to the charming town of Lienz, located in East Tyrol and surrounded on all sides by the Alps.
In Lienz we had the opportunity to see a small historic square and part of the old town.





After a little over an hour walk a bus came to take us to Hubben, which is about 10 km away from the destination of our trip. With Hubben, after an hour of waiting for the next change, we reached a very narrow and winding road to the coveted Kals am Großglockner - located at an altitude of 1324 meters above sea level




It was from there that we were to move up the next day.
At Kals we stayed in a very nice guest house Wurlerhof, which for a really low price for this place offered amazingly good conditions.
We were treated there as family members.
The Gamsalm restaurant, which was close to the guest house, is also very recommendable. She offered delicious and relatively inexpensive food.





Summarizing:
- Tickets for a connection from Vienna to Kals am Großglockner can be purchased cheaper at http://www.oebb.at/en/
- Website of the Wurlerhof guest house http://www.wurlerhof.at/
- Defeated elevation - Vienna 174 m above sea level - Kals 1324 m above sea level


day 2. Kals am Großglockner - Erzherzog-Johann-Hutte



Today we planned that we will reach the highest located hostel on our route - Erzherzog-Johann-Hutte, in which we had already booked a few days earlier.
We had to overcome 2130 m altitude .

We started the day relatively early, at 5.30 am, from the exceptionally prepared breakfast at the Wurlerhof.
You have to write here that the service of the guest house, and especially the hostess who hosted us, were amazing, warm, hospitable and helpful people.



Immediately after breakfast, we quickly repacked our backpacks and set off.





Before leaving for the route it is good to check exactly on the map where there is an entrance to the trail leading to the first hostel, or Lucknerhaus, because in the town there are no signs to help you.
In later hours, a bus leaves the town of Kals, which reaches the Lucknerhaus at 1920m above sea level
We, however, chose a hiking trip, which we did not regret for a moment, because the road was very pleasant and scenic .
After about 40 minutes of walking, Grossglockner's goal appeared to our eyes. It was even more impressive than we expected.


At Lucknerhaus, we took a short coffee break. You can also eat an apple pie as good as our Polish apple pie from the Chochołowska valley or Murowaniec.




Behind the shelter, finally, we entered the area of ​​the Národná voda of the High Tauras.
The road from Lucknerhaus to Lucknerhutte took just over 1.5 hours and led through the beautiful green valley of the Kodintztal.


At Lucknerhutte, we filled the empty bottles with water and we moved further up. The next stop was to be the Stüdlhütte hostel at an altitude of 2802 m above sea level. We arrived there in about 2 hours.



Stüdlhütte from the outside resembled a large steel can. Inside, however, it was quite a cozy, wood-paneled hostel. It was the penultimate point of our trip for this day.







Then we set off to Erzherzog-Johann Hutte, located 3451 m above sea level. To get there, go through the glacier. The trail and fissures were very visible, but despite everything, it is always better to tie up with a rope.



The glacier ended with a short ferrata that led to the shelter itself. The road from Stüdlhütte to EJ H lasted about 2 hours.






Erzherzog-Johann Hutte turned out to be a very atmospheric hostel, open until the end of September. It is also an ideal starting point for the summit. It offers numerous accommodation, bedding and good food. In the winter season, a shelter is available, located by the hostel.




It is worth noting that the hostels on the way to the summit honor the discounts of the Alpenverein and high-mountain clubs that are members of the UIAA International Federation of Mountaineering Associations.






Summarizing:
-Welcome to book your accommodation in Erzherzog-Johann Hutte in advance, all contact details can be found at: http://www.erzherzog-johann-huette.at/
- Kals am Großglockner (1324 m above sea level) - Lucknerhaus (1920 m above sea level) - time: about 1.5 hours
- Lucknerhaus (1920 m above sea level) - Lucknerhutte (2241 m above sea level) - time: about 1.5 hours
- Lucknerhutte (2241 m above sea level) - Stüdlhütte (2802 m above sea level) - time about 2 hours
- Stüdlhütte (2802 m above sea level) - Erzherzog-Johann Huette (3454 m above sea level) - time: about 2 hours

day 3. Erzherzog-Johann-Hutte - Klein Glockner


We planned the peak attack on Sunday. Everything was going according to plan. The sunny, very stable weather was about to change in a few days.
In a word, dream conditions :)


Thanks to the fact that on the previous day we arrived at the Erzherzog-Johann shelter, we could afford to get up a little later today and go on route around 9 o'clock.
The time to travel from the shelter to the main peak of Großglockner can be from 2 to even 5 hours and depends mainly on the number of people who want to reach the summit at the same time and people who come back from the summit.



After leaving the hostel, we went towards the mountain . Initially, the route led through a flat flat terrain, then we entered the glacier area, where a well-visible path led on an even terrain, which after a while changed into a heavily elevated snow slope. After defeating him, we found ourselves flat again.










It was the perfect moment to relax and prepare for climbing, tie a rope, prepare equipment and turn sticks into an ice ax. In the further area, all these activities could be very difficult.




At that moment, we faced a specific challenge. The challenge was to overcome a very icy and steep gully. It is best to defeat him early in the morning, before the snow and ice begins to melt. On the right, while walking up, there are some rings. Their rare distribution, however, does not make things easier. The steep gully in the conditions we found was by far the most difficult obstacle to reaching the summit. An additional difficulty was the guides, who, running their clients, almost forced themselves to climbers, among others.



After defeating the gully, we got to the place where it was possible to take off and leave crampons and ice axes, later they could only disturb, because further passage led a rocky ridge.



There were a lot of poles on the ridge, which were very comfortable belaying points. The poles were stacked to Kleinglockner (the lower peak, separate from the Grossglockner by the Glocknerscharte Pass).




That day we managed to get Kleinglockner. The border crossing was not a big problem. It is very pleasant and filled with beautiful views. It can be a problem for people sensitive to exhibitions, and for any fear of height or space can be a virtually impossible barrier.




The greatest danger in this place were passing people. There is no division for the entry and descent routes. There is only one way on which everyone must fit.






After getting Kleinglockner, we returned to a well-deserved rest back to Erzherzog-Johann Hutte. The hostel was vibrant with life. We decided to lie down earlier to catch up before the next mountain day.

day 4. Erzherzog-Johann-Hutte - Großglockner

" Here in the mountains you come to face a geographical reality that surpasses us and stimulates us to accept this attitude, to overcome ourselves." And you can see these walkers, tourists, mountaineers, those who climb up often, like heroes who follow the silent in a word, in a majestic word, the eternal pronunciation of mountains go, climb and overcome themselves to reach the summits . " Pope John Paul II


" Mountains are the means, the goal is man. It's not about getting to the top, it's getting better. "   Walter Bonatti
Today's morning greeted us with a breathtaking view. It was one of those component moments when time literally stood still. The sun slowly emerged over the alpine peaks stretching to the horizon. It carried a red-orange glow behind it, which contrasted with the night sky still vividly.



With this sight in front of our eyes, we ate breakfast, which in Erzherzog-Johann Hutte
consists of coffee / tea, bread and a large bowl filled with miniature versions of jams, patties and other additions needed to compose sandwiches.
After breakfast at around 7:00 am, gathered, we headed towards the summit.

The way to Kleinglockner went in a similar way to the previous day. Initially straight, it turned into an icy, dangerous gully and then a stony, rocky approach, which enjoyed the eyes.






After reaching Kleinglockner from the Grossglockner summit, only the Glocknerscharte Pass separated us. To defeat her it was necessary to go down with the help of a ferrata down, where the last, climbing part leading to the altitude of 3798 m was starting


The evaluation of the difficulty of this approach according to the Alpine scale PD is I +, II. It was insured in rings and single sticks, and finding hand holds was not a major problem there.
The main difficulty, as in the case of the ridge passage, were passing people.
After less than 30-40 minutes, we managed to stand proudly next to Kaiserkreuz, which is a 350-kilo Imperial cross, decorating the Grossglockner peak.



The view from there was delightful and the feeling that accompanied him, unforgettable :)





On the same day, we decided to return to Stüdlhütte. We arrived there in the evening, happy, but a bit tired. Going down from the top, due to the difficult conditions in the gully and the need to watch out for passing people, took us more time than we thought and we arrived at the hostel after dark.
When planning a trip to Grossglockner, it is worth to insure yourself in a temporary reserve.
We finished the day with a delicious soup and a shower, which attention is on chips and lasts for 3 minutes (the cost of one token is 4 euro).
The Stüdlhütte hostel, like Erzherzog-Johann Hutte, honors the Alpenverein and alpine clubs.

The next day after an early wake up with sadness and with the knowledge that this is the end of our trip, we started going down to Lucknerhaus. We stumbled there with amazing people from Poland who we met in the shelter a day earlier who helped us get there to Vienna and make it on time for the return bus to Poland :)

We invite you to watch the movie that we were able to shoot during the summit: